If you
think eating brains is something only zombies find appetizing, then wait until
you read Paul de La Gironière’s best-selling mid-19th-century travelogue.
Gironière was a French explorer who arrived
in the Philippines in 1820. The adventurer in him thought it was a good
idea to stay in the country for a while to practice his profession (he was an
eye doctor). Soon, he founded the town of Jala Jala in the present-day Rizal
province and managed it for almost 20 years until the death of his wife and
son.
One day, accompanied by his assistant (aptly named Alila), Gironière
decided to explore the mountainous provinces of the north. This was to
see for himself what exactly the head-hunting “savages” looked like and how
they survived on a daily basis.
First stop was the
Tinguians of Abra. Save for their weird odor (which Gironière attributed
to the Tinguians’ habit of not removing their clothes), the two visitors
found the ethnic group nicer than they expected. And then came the biggest
surprise of their lives: A few days after their arrival, Gironière and
Alila were invited to take part in a “brain
feast”–a traditional celebration held every time the group won a
battle against a rival tribe.
As described by Gironière, the bizarre
tradition starts with the Tinguian chiefs and warriors sitting around a
“sacred” space where a large vessel of basi (sugarcane
wine) was placed, along with several decapitated heads of their enemies. After
giving a short victory speech, each of the warriors would then get a severed
head for himself, crack it open using a hatchet, and take out the brain. As if
it’s not gory enough, the young Tinguian girls would then pound the brains
until they were fine enough to be mixed with the sugar cane wine.
When the concoction is ready, all the
participants would each get a taste of it and pass it around for the whole
tribe to enjoy. Fearing that the Tinguians would kill
them, Gironière had no choice but to partake in what he would describe as
an “infernal beverage.”
Although some scholars dismiss the “brain
feast” as a possible work of fiction, history suggests
otherwise. American explorer Dean Worcester described similar ritual among the
Kalinga, while William Alexander Pickering–in his book “Pioneering in Formosa”
(1898)–commented that Formosan savages “mixed
the brains of their enemies with wine, and drank the disgusting mixture.”
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